KeepSaralandBeautiful
Meetings are held on the 2nd Thursday of every other
month at 12 noon at the Saraland Chamber Offices.
KSB GARDENING NEWS FROM JAMES MILES
Join Keep Saraland Beautiful
Business Membership
Your business can join KSB for as little as $120 per
year. Your dues are used for beautification of the
city. When available, Business Members are
entitled to the use of a custom-built garbage
receptacle to be used at your business' location as
long as you are a member. We need to build
partnerships with the business community and you
can help!
Individual Membership
Join Keep Saraland Beautiful as an Individual
Member for as little as $12 or join as a family for
$25. Your dues are used for beautification of the
city. We need volunteers to join our organization for
the betterment of Saraland!
Mayor Dr. Howard Rubenstein,
Council Chair Joe McDonald,
Council Members: Newton Cromer, Wayne Biggs,
Natalie Moye and Veronica Hudson
December 2021
Where did the year go?! I don’t know about you, but
parts of this year went by in a blur. Here we are in
December, WOW!
For plants that have a history of scale insects,
whiteflies, mealy bugs, and the like, you can make a
horticulture/dormant oil treatment. Always read the
label for application rates, temperature restrictions,
etc. To ensure effective applications, be sure to apply
the product on the underside of the leaves as well as
the top, and branches. For some heavy infestations,
you may want to prune those parts out before
spraying.
This is the time to collect fruit/scion wood for grafting
and budding. If you have a grafted/budded tree with
fruit you really like and want to propagate. You can
collect wood from the dormant plant and refrigerate it
until the proper time to graft or bud. Here are a few
tips for collecting desirable wood:
•
Make sure your pruners are sanitized
•
Cut the bottom of the fruit/scion wood at an
angle to identify the bottom. This will facilitate the
correct orientation of the wood or bud
•
Store wrapped in a damp paper towel or damp
sawdust.
•
Store refrigerated until you are ready to use
them.
Here are a couple of links for more information about
grafting technics:
Pecan Inlay Grafting Technique - YouTube
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/farming/grafting-
methods/
We have finally experienced enough cold weather to
kill off some of our warm-season weeds. However,
some of our warm-season tender ornamentals are
still hanging in especially if they are in a protected
site. How much cold weather have we had? Well,
here are our chill hour numbers as of December 2nd:
Brewton, AL – 175 hours Old Model; 52 hour
Modified Model
Fairhope, AL – 77 hours Old Model; 36 hour Modified
Model
Moss Point, MS – 120 hours Old Model; 120 hours
Modified Model
Currently, there is not a weather station in Mobile
that is used to calculate chill hours. The Modified
Model compensates for the warm snaps we get
during the fall and early winter that negates any short
irregular chill hours. It tends to be more
representative of what our area truly accumulates.
With that being said and a little summating from the
numbers above, you can see we are below 100
hours. You can compare that to what your plants
need to monitor our seasonal progress.
2021 Summary:
This has been another unusual year! A wetter than
normal year posed significant issues in all stages of
agriculture production, landscaping, and anything
outdoors. I spoke with a second-generation farmer
in his late 70’s and he stated, “I’ve been farming all
my life, but I learned more about farming this year
than I ever have”. That is a profound statement that
really made me appreciate those that were
successful. With the changes in weather trends and
the climate, gardeners and farmers have to pay
attention to current situations and make adjustments
to their cultural activities. During a wet year, reduce
irrigation, time fungicide applications during
extended dry days between rain events, and prune
canopies to improve air movements to help dry the
canopies. In dry years, irrigate to maintain constant
soil moisture, direct irrigation to the soil and not the
tip of the plants, and reduce fungicide applications.
Garden by the current situation and not just by a
calendar or checklist.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
November 2021
Finally, the grass has slowed to the point that I can
clean my mower and put it away for a few months.
Usually before the first cut in the spring, I will change
the oil, sharpen, or change the blades, and clean or
replace the air filter.
Plant spring bulbs. There are many reasons for poor
bulb performance. Start with giving the bulbs a
squeeze to check the condition. Healthy bulbs are
firm and have some weight as opposed to feeling
light, hallow, or soft. Other things to look for are
discolorations, odd texture, odd shape, mold, or
rotting odor.
Plant the bulbs three to four times the height of the
bulb itself. Planting depth, as well as exposure to full
sunlight, ensures that the bulb will be able to sustain
the weather conditions of your landscape. Do your
homework, research bulbs for the recommended
depth to plant each specific bulb type you are
interested in.
Now is the perfect time to send in a soil sample to
the Auburn Soil Testing Lab. You can pick up the soil
test boxes from the Alabama Cooperative Extension
Office, 1070 Schillinger Rd. N., Mobile AL 36608.
Once you get the results back, if it calls for lime,
apply according to the recommendations as soon as
you can. It takes lime months to work and soil
moisture is key.
Special note: If you plan on adding bulk organic
matter to your soil, wait until after you have
incorporated it to collect and send in soil samples.
If you have an area that you want to improve the soil
condition because of compaction and/or clay soils.
You can plant a cool season cover crop such as
clover, rye, wheat, etc. Allow it to grow during the
cool-season and terminate it in late winter, early
spring. You will then incorporate it into your soil by
tilling or disking. This will add valuable organic
matter to the soil. Before you plant a warm-season
crop or grass, soil test, and follow recommendations.
October 2021
I love fall! The temperatures are pleasant, the
fishing is phenomenal, and it’s time to plant and
enjoy fall vegetables. If you’ve been looking for
vegetable transplants in garden centers recently you
probably noticed a shortage of those plants. The
normal sources of transplants in the region are
behind in supplying transplants to local garden
centers. However, you can still find vegetable
transplants if you are patient, and you can contact
local school horticulture programs that start their own
veggies, and they are on schedule.
Fall is a transition period for the grass and other
plants to slow down. During this period it is important
not to fertilize, especially with anything that contains
nitrogen. Nitrogen the first number on the fertilizer
analysis, (20-5-10) promotes growth. If you promote
growth now or later this year, the turf could be injured
during a cold front. I would warn against using a
high nitrogen product past August. There are
programs and products that are labeled as
winterizers. They are not suited for this area.
This is the appropriate time to apply pre-emergent
herbicides to control winter weeds such as lawn
burweed and annual bluegrass. A complete list can
be found in IPM-590 https://www.aces.edu/wp-
content/uploads/2020/02/IPM-0590-Home-Lawns-
Chemical-Control_021821L-G.pdf
Also, I will warn that it is not recommended to use
products that contain both the fertilizer and the
herbicide tother in this area. The timing of
applications is not compatible.
Order strawberry plants now. Strawberry plants
grow best for our area during the cool season. The
best time to plant them here is late October thru
November. They can be difficult to find this time of
the year locally, but you can mail order them fairly
easy. You can also ask your favorite garden center if
they can get them.
Always inspect plants closely before you buy them.
Look for deal-breakers like root problems, hard to
control insects and diseases, planting errors (planted
too deep in the container), etc. If you find such
conditions keep looking.
With a wetter than normal September, some
gardeners have witnessed fruit split of citrus,
persimmons, etc. This is rare this time of year as we
are normally drier. However, the splitting is a typical
response to too much water. When the soil is
saturated, the plants will take up more water than
they can expel through the normal path of stomates
on the leaves. The fruit on the trees will absorb so
much water that the fruit swells more quickly than the
skin can stretch, resulting in split fruit.
On another fruit note, if you notice that some of your
fruit trees bear fruit heavy every other year this is
called alternate bearing. You have not done
anything wrong. Some plants are more prone to it
than others. Several things can and do contribute to
this such as freezes, droughts, and hurricanes. Any
event that causes the plants to lose their leaves
outside of the normal seasonal transitions will trigger
this pattern. There are a couple of things you can do
to help reduce that cycle. Fertilize a little bit more
and remove some fruit on the heavy crop year.
Last month we had a spectacular moon view, I hope
you got to enjoy it. As you work in your garden and
landscape have a few locations picked out for sitting
and viewing. Consider the time of day and season.
Take a moment on one cool morning to sit out in your
garden with a hot cup of coffee and enjoy the view.
September 2021
Believe it or not, we are in the early stages of the fall
transition. Some of our ornamental trees are starting
to yellow and drop a few leaves, fall-blooming
natives and other perennials are showing their colors
and/or budding up, and if you have Bahia grass
mixed in your turf grass you should have noticed a
reduction in seedheads.
I use this time to plan and prep for my vegetable
gardening:
•
find seeds/transplants locally or order
•
apply soil amendments
•
select location to correspond with my crop
rotation plan
This is also a good time to locate woody ornamentals
that you plan to plant later this fall thru the winter.
Your favorite local garden center can even help you
identify great performers for your specific landscape.
If your turf is weak or stressed (yellowing, thin, or
newly planted) you can fertilize with 5-5-25 @ 4 lbs.
per 1,000 ft2 or 0-0-64 @ 2 lbs. per 1,000 ft2 or
equivalent. This treatment is optional, if your turf is
in good condition and not under stress omit it unless
your soil test recommends adding potassium. Also,
avoid formulations that contain an herbicide.
You can make one more treatment for Fire Ants
before the end of the year. Throughout this month
treat with a Fire Ant Bait. If immediate results are
desired, use a Fire Ant killer. Bait vs killer, these
products are very different in action and treatments.
Please read the labels and use them accordingly.
The baits are very effective and economical.
Continue to remove weeds and keep them from
going to seed. You can physically remove them, and
in turf areas you can use a selective herbicide to kill
the broadleaf weeds there. An herbicide treatment
now will be effective because the weeds will not
have a chance to recover resulting in a reduced
population in the next growing season.
We are still getting frequent rains but if the rains
stop for more than a week you should irrigate to
reduce the chance of stress. It is important that your
plants don’t go into the dormant season drought-
stressed, which will affect their health and
performance next year.
The area’s satsuma crop still looks great. My
backyard trees are loaded. The pecan crop looks
good at this point, but this is a risky time for this crop
due to storms. Local peanuts growers have started
to dig, thus fresh peanuts are available and easy to
find. They are great for boiling and roasting for a
snack during football games.
Believe it or not, fall is on the way!
August 2021
Let’s talk container gardening. Containers can add
diversity to your garden and allow mobility to follow
the sunny spots in the landscape. I will touch on
some basic things to consider when planting in
containers.
Container size is very important and often
underestimated. First, most container plants need to
be repotted immediately or planted in the ground. If
left in the original container there is a high risk it will
become severely rootbound.
For vegetables choose container size as follows: 3-
gal for small to medium size plants like lettuce and
squash; 5-gal for larger plants like tomatoes.
Choose containers adequate to accommodate the
mature size of the plants in question. You can even
mix plants in a container. If you plant more than one
plant per container, remember to increase the size of
the container to accommodate the additional plants.
Containers can be made of almost any material, but
the most important thing is drainage. The container
must have holes in the bottom or near the bottom
edge.
Potting Mix
Your potting mix should be soilless, containing a
blend of peat moss, coarse builder’s sand, perlite,
and/or vermiculite. You can purchase a premixed
product, or you can blend your own. If you blend
your own do your homework on the pH needs of your
plants and lime to raise the pH to the desired level.
After planting your plants be sure to fill the container
to within ½” to ¾” of the top.
Tip
If you plant a vining plant or plants that are top-heavy
you will need to add some support and/or anchor the
container.
Now is the time to plan for fall planting. If you are into
vegetables review your past notes and compare to
seed sources for possible new varieties.
More in-depth details can be found at:
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/landscaping/contai
ner-gardening/
Enjoy the outdoor!
July 2021
Planting in the summer. Summer is not ideal for
planting in the south. Can it be done? The short
answer is yes. The limitation of summer planting is
water. If you choose to plant in the summer months,
start with a healthy container plant. Site selection
and preparation must be maximized. You must be
dedicated to watering the new plant through the start
of fall. That means you must make arrangements if
you go out of town… All the things we normally
preach about planting still apply, don’t plant too
deep, don’t disturb the rootball too much, mulch
around the plant, and water-water-water.
When watering, do not wet the top of the plant just
the ground around the base.
Rogue played out and diseased vegetable plants.
Don’t leave plants and produce residue in the garden
area, leftover plants and produce will help diseases
and insects carry over to the next season.
This is a great time to solarize sections of your
garden to reduce soil-borne pests. This involves the
following steps:
1.
Remove existing plant material.
2.
Till, double dig, turn the soil to maximize soil
exposure.
3.
Irrigate to increase soil moisture for the
steaming.
4.
Cover with clear plastic, make sure the plastic
lays flat against the soil and the edges are sealed
airtight with soils, boards, rocks, etc.
5.
Leave the plastic in place for a least 6 weeks, 8
to 10 weeks would be better.
6.
When you uncover to plant your desirable
plants, it’s important not to disturb the soil too much.
Doing so will bring pathogen from the deeper soil
back up in the rootzone re-contaminating the soil you
just solarized. All you should have to do is plant.
You can also solarize annual bedding plant areas.
I get asked the question, how often should I cut my
grass quite a bit. Well, there is not a simple answer
but here’s my typical response. If you leave your
clippings on the lawn, every 5 days. If you bag or
rake your clippings, every 7 days. Weather and type
of grass are factors that can change those days. If
you fertilize regularly and irrigate, you may have to
shorten your interval. If we are in a drought, you are
not irrigating, and your grass is in a summer dormant
stage, you may add days to your interval.
From time to time during droughts, I get photos of
plants that show signs of fertilizer burn. If you fertilize
drought-stressed plants, the initial shock of the
fertilizer can damage plants.
If you want to fertilize plants during a drought period.
Irrigate them a couple of times to increase the soil
moisture, make sure the plant is hydrated, and
actively growing before fertilizing.
Continue to scout for mole crickets, spittlebugs, and
chinch bugs in your turf grass.
This garden tip is more of a confession. In a small
flowerbed, I recently let the crabgrass get ahead of
me. With all the rain it grew large quickly. I noticed
that it had put on seedheads. I didn’t have time to
treat it with an herbicide as the seeds would still
mature and fall into the bed. If I used a “weedeater”, I
would have spread the seeds over a larger area.
Pulling the weeds with the seedheads on them would
also spread the seeds. What is the solution? I used
my garden scissors to gently cut the seedheads off,
afterwards I was able to pull most of the remaining
weeds, especially those close to my desirable plants.
This also gave me a bit more time to apply an
herbicide before new seedheads formed. Thankfully,
it was a small bed. Consider the above scenario
when dealing with any annual weed such as
crabgrass, chamber bitter, etc. in your flower beds.
Take the time to sit and enjoy your garden.
June 2021
The wet cool spring has delayed some insect activity.
Don’t stop scouting your landscape and garden, you
should keep an eye out for pests and problems so
you can address them early before they get ahead of
you.
The week after Mother’s Day, I noticed Mole crickets
active in the lawn. There was tunneling activity and
exit holes where they would emerge from the soil for
mating flights. Now is not the time to treat, just note
where you see the activity. You will target those
areas in a few weeks when you see immature mole
crickets that are about a ½” long. That stage of the
lifecycle is the most vulnerable to control methods.
So, how do you know when to treat? Soapy water
flushes. The soap flush is a scouting technique used
to confirm the presence of insects. The method is to
mix 2 tablespoons of liquid dishwashing soap (my
preference is lemon-scented) in 1 gallon of water.
Don’t use forceful mixing that will result in heavy
foam suds, this will make it difficult to see the
insects. Next, pour the soapy water onto the area
you noticed activity. Any mole crickets present will
surface in a minute or so. Irrigating the area after
flushing can minimize sun scalding of the turf.
There many over-the-counter products labeled for
mole cricket control. Most cases will require multiple
treatments. For more information, you can check
this link: https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-
garden/biology-and-control-of-mole-crickets/
If you haven’t treated for fire ants, you still have time
to put out fire ant bait.
Pruning, this is the time of the year you keep your
pruners with you at all times in the landscape. You
won’t always be doing heavy pruning but a snip here
and there to keep the growth thinned and what I like
to call “directing traffic”. Directing traffic simply
means continue training to the desired form.
Local produce is in full swing, support local
growers…
Fertilize St. Augustine, etc. If you know you have a
high population of summer annuals you can use
weed and feed products now, just check the label for
your type of turf and restrictions.
Friendly reminder, Alabama Free Fishing Day is June
12, 2021. For more information:
https://www.outdooralabama.com/fishing/free-fishing-
day
May 2021
April showers bring May flowers, especially if you
plant in between the showers.
This month is still good for planting. I was out at A-
Bloom Garden center a couple of weeks ago looking
for some azaleas. As I perused their selection, I
noticed some milkweed and some bottlebrush. That
sparked my recollection of plants that did not survive
the February freeze. So, my 7-plant purchase turned
into a 30-plant purchase. The day in the life of a
plant collector, LOL.
Last month I described the results of pruning
azaleas. Well, I suppose I should address the when
and how to prune azaleas. Here are a few tips:
1.
Prune your azaleas after they finish blooming.
Ideally, you will do it immediately after they bloom.
This is also a great time for an application of
fertilizer. Fertilize according to soil test or ½ cup of
azalea fertilizer per year of age.
2.
Make pruning cuts at the base of limbs, not just
clip the ends or hedge. If you do hedge, make
additional cuts throughout with hand pruners.
3.
Resist pruning past the end of July. This will
give the plants time to set more flower buds in a
typical year.
4.
Sanitize your pruning equipment between
plants.
Landscape design tips
1.
Plant odd numbers, this keeps the eye and
subconscious from dividing the plants.
2.
Plant groups of color and not alternating colors
like pink, white, pink, white… Groups of colors create
more Pop!
Lawn areas
Warm-season weeds have started to compete with
our lawn grasses. Products that contain a
combination of the following active ingredients will
take care of most of our broadleaf weeds in turf: 2,4-
D + MCPP + Dicamba. Check the label of these
products for your turf type and temperature
restrictions.
Fertilize your centipede grass with 15-0-15 or
according to your soil test results.
Treat for Brown Patch in centipede grass with
Immunox.
If your soil test result indicated high phosphorus, add
iron. This is especially important for acid-loving
plants like azaleas, gardenias, camellias,
blueberries, centipede grass, etc.
House Plants
A word of caution putting plants, that have been in
the house for the winter, outside. You must get them
acclimated to the sun by gradually exposing them.
This will reduce the chance of sunscald.
Anyone that knows me, knows not only am I an
outdoor person, and I am an avid angler. With that
being said, I feel obligated to share that Alabama
Free Fishing Day is June 12, 2021. For more
information:
https://www.outdooralabama.com/fishing/free-fishing-
day
April 2021
It seems that spring has finally settled in. The
azaleas and wisteria are really putting on a show this
year. If you look closely you can see the difference in
the azaleas that have not been pruned and those
pruned regularly and those pruned too late in the
growing season. The unpruned azaleas are full of
blooms throughout the canopy. The regularly pruned
ones have blooms in a single layer on the end of the
branches. Those pruned late in the growing season
have sparse blooms because they did not have
enough time to set more blooming points (buds).
As I drive through the rural areas of the county, I
have also noticed dogwoods providing a colorful
break in the woods. Another plant that is really
showing out this year is the Multiflora Rose. I have
seen it more and in places I never knew it existed
until this year. The Multiflora Rose is an exotic
invasive, so I am not encouraging planting or
propagating it, just enjoying the show.
Our warm-season turfgrass is starting to green up
and actively grow so you can fertilize your St.
Augustine, Bermuda, Zoysia, and Bahia now. Do not
fertilize Centipede until May.
Be careful utilizing herbicides on turfgrass during the
green-up period. Even products labeled for them can
injure them at this sensitive time.
Winter weeds are still hanging in there. Part of
controlling winter weeds is preventing them from
producing more seeds. Mow, weed-eat, etc. use any
method that fits your management activity to keep
them from flowering and flowers from maturing.
Renewing mulch in bed areas can also be an
important tool for controlling weeds.
This is the perfect time to use fire ant bait.
If you have not pruned out the dead and damaged
plant material from the freeze a few weeks ago, this
is a good time to do so. Clean/Sanitize your pruning
equipment between plants to reduce the chance of
spreading diseases. I use 70% isopropyl alcohol, but
you can also use 10% bleach.
On the vegetable and ornamental front, Bryant
Career Technical Center and Mary G. Montgomery
High School both have horticulture programs that sell
plants to the public. You can find them on Facebook
or call the schools directly for more details. These
students spend months learning and caring for the
plants for their sales. Please support these
programs and get to know the instructors, they can
help you with your landscape and garden plans.
One important part of any landscape is a sitting
area(s). This is one of the most overlooked parts of
any landscape. If you spend any amount of time
tending to your landscape, a sitting area will give you
an opportunity to enjoy the space you have created
and labored for. It can become your place of
tranquility. You can also expand your experience to
enjoying the many birds and other wildlife that also
enjoy your landscape. You should have more than
one sitting area or at the very least be able to move
your seat to different areas.
It is Spring! Enjoy the show!
March 2021
Well, the vacation from the lawnmower is over…
Sometime this first week of March, I will crank the
lawnmower for the first time in 2021. Just to be clear,
I will not be cutting my turfgrass. The turf hasn’t
greened up enough to warrant mowing; what I will be
mowing is the winter weeds. This is partially my fault
as I didn’t apply a pre-emergent herbicide to the
entire yard back in October. As a result, cool-season
weeds are abundant in some areas. Mowing them
not only results in a neat and uniform height but also
more importantly removes the seedheads that will
produce more seeds. By reducing the canopy, you
also reduce the habitat for insects and diseases.
One insect that will become very active in the next
couple of weeks, if the weather continues to be warm
and rainy, is the Crane Fly.
Crane flies incorrectly called mosquito hawks; they
are not related to nor have anything to do with
mosquitoes. They are indeed flies. The stage we are
seeing now is the adult stage. Some adults feed on
nectar and some lack mouthparts and do not feed at
all. The adults only live for 2-3 days. They are
harmless to plants, animals including people. The
sole purpose of the adult crane fly is to mate, and for
the females to lay eggs.
The larval stage has chewing mouthparts and feeds
primarily on decomposing organic matter. With that
in mind, they are considered beneficial for their
contribution to our ecosystem.
No treatment is warranted or recommended. If they
become a significant nuisance for you and your
family, mow weed-grown and overgrown areas to
help dry the soil out.
In the next few weeks, our turfgrass will start to
green up. A big word of Caution with herbicides
during lawn green-up. Even products labeled for your
particular turf can injure it during green-up. Please
read the label carefully and follow them.
Vegetables!!! Now is the start of the spring gardening
season!
I have my list of spring vegetables that are a
mainstay as well as my list of fall vegetables. Each of
us has our favorites and that will be a topic for
another time but for now, I have just a few reminders:
•
Grow what you and your family like to eat.
•
Grow more than 1 variety and experiment with
at least 1 new one each year.
•
Rotate vegetables to new areas each growing
season for a 3-year rotation.
•
Irrigate and harvest in the morning.
•
Do NOT wet the plants when you irrigate.
•
Stay ahead of the weeds.
•
Have fun!
I will begin raising chickens this year. Raising
chickens has a multitude of benefits to the landscape
and garden. The one thing I will call your attention to
is food safety with any livestock in and around your
vegetables. They should be excluded from your
vegetable garden area 90 days before harvesting
above-ground crops like tomatoes and 120 days for
crops in direct contact with the soil such as radishes.
Be safe and do the math.
February 2021
Generally, I leave my citrus on the trees and only
harvest what I can use in a weeks’ time. Remove
any remaining fruit from your fruit trees, whether it is
still edible or dried fruit mummies. You should clean
off all fruit from them to ensure that the trees will
flower again for the upcoming season and decrease
disease carry over. That applies to all fruits.
As of January 30th, we have accumulated 480 Chill
hours with the Old Model (which counts hours when
the temperature is 45° F and below) and 414 Chill
hours with the Modified Model (which counts hours
when the temperature is between 45° and 30° F).
The chill hour count will end February 15th.
Mid-February is the time to start pruning. You can do
light clean-up and thinning prune to all your plants.
Some plants need more extensive pruning now such
as fruit trees (except blueberries and blackberries)
and most of our ornamentals (not azaleas,
hydrangeas, and gardenias).
It’s still a good time to plant ornamentals and fruits. I
planted several blueberry plants the last week of
January. Make sure to keep them watered. This is
the time to plant Irish potatoes, sugar snaps, and
sweet peas. If you start your own seeds for
transplants, now is the time to get them going.
There is an app named “SOW”, from the Alabama
Cooperative Extension System, that is a vegetable
planting guide. It gives you a wealth of information
on vegetables, dates, pests, harvest, etc. You still
have time to review seed catalogs and websites for
warm-season vegetables that can be planted later or
direct-seeded.
This is also the window to apply pre-emergent
herbicide treatments to your turf area. Make sure
the product you select is labeled for the type of
turfgrass you have. Also, avoid “Weed & Feed” type
products as it is too early to fertilize.
Don’t forget Valentine’s Day is February 14th.
Consider live plants for Valentine’s gifts.
January 2021
Happy New Year!
Continue to care for your poinsettias. You can keep
them alive after the flowering and leaf drop. In a few
months when the temperatures are in the 80’s and
above, you can repot or plant them outside.
You can plant another crop of cool-season
vegetables such as cabbage, broccoli, lettuce,
turnips, radishes, etc. It’s a perfect time to scope out
websites and catalogs for your vegetable mainstays
and possible new varieties for your warm-season
vegetables.
Spray shrubs and trees with a history of scale
insects with dormant oil. Be sure to read the label
for rates, temperature restrictions, etc.
If you did not soil test last month, you can still do so.
If you did, lime according to the results. Most of the
recommendations are in ton per acre, which is the
equivalent of 50 lbs. per 1,000 ft2. If your
recommendations are more than 1 ton per acre, it
should be split into 2 or 3 separate applications at 4
to 6-month intervals.
Now is a good time to have your lawn and garden
equipment serviced. Change the oil in engines,
sharpen blades, shovels, pruners, etc.
For advanced gardeners or those looking for a
challenge, you can graft camellias now. Here is a
link for more information about camellias:
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/care-trees-
shrubs/the-culture-of-camellias-the-state-flower-of-
alabama/